Water waves . derivation of the equations and linearization . notions of dispersion and group speed . weak nonlinearity and solitary waves . perturbation expansions 水波。方程的導(dǎo)出及其線性化。離差和群速的概念。弱非線性和孤波。攝動(dòng)擴(kuò)展。
However , owing to the assumptions of weak dispersion and weak nonlinearity , the standard boussinesq equations derived by peregrine are restricted to shallow water areas and to small nonlinear 但經(jīng)典boussinesq方程( peregrine )只具有弱非線性和弱色散性,限制了其僅適用于淺水區(qū)域和弱非線性效應(yīng)情況。